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Textile manufacturing

Friday, August 27th, 2010

Textile manufacturing

Processing of Cotton

Cotton Manufacturing Processes (after Murray 1911)

Bale Breaker

Blowing Room

Willowing

Breaker Scutcher

Batting

Finishing Scutcher

Lapping

Carding

Carding Room

Silver Lap

Combing

Drawing

Slubbing

Intermediate

Roving

Fine Roving

Mule Spinning

-

Ring Spinning

Spinning

Reeling

Doubling

Winding

Bundling

Bleaching

Winding

Warping

Cabling

Sizing/Slashing/Dressing

Gassing

Weaving

Spooling

Cloth

Yarn (Cheese)- – Bundle

Sewing Thread

Cotton is the world’s most important natural fibre. In the year 2007, the global yield was 25 million tons from 35 million hectares cultivated in more than 50 countries.

There are five stages

Cultivating and Harvesting

Preparatory Processes

Spinning

Weaving

Finishing

Cultivating and harvesting

Cotton is grown anywhere with long, hot dry summers with plenty of sunshine and low humidity. Indian cotton, gossypium arboreum, is finer but the staple is only suitable for hand processing. American cotton, gossypium hirsutum, produces the longer staple needed for machine production. Planting is from September to mid November and the crop is harvested between March and May. The cotton bolls are harvested by stripper harvesters and spindle pickers, that remove the entire boll from the plant. The cotton boll is the seed pod of the cotton plant, attached to each of the thousands of seeds are fibres about 2.5 cm long.

Ginning

The seed cotton goes in to a Cotton gin. The cotton gin separates seeds and removes the “trash” (dirt, stems and leaves) from the fibre. In a saw gin, circular saws grab the fibre and pull it through a grating that is too narrow for the seeds to pass. A roller gin is used with longer staple cotton. Here a leather roller captures the cotton. A knife blade, set close to the roller, detaches the seeds by drawing them through teeth in circular saws and revolving brushes which clean them away.

The ginned cotton fibre, known as lint, is then compressed into bales which are about 1.5 m tall and weigh almost 220 kg. Only 33% of the crop is usable lint. Commercial cotton is priced by quality, and that broadly relates to the average length of the staple, and the variety of the plant. Longer staple cotton (2 in to 1 in) is called Egyptian, medium staple (1 in to in) is called American upland and short staple (less than in) is called Indian.
The cotton seed is pressed into a cooking oil. The husks and meal are processed into animal feed, and the stems into paper.

Issues

Cotton is farmed intensively and uses large amounts of fertiliser and 25% of the worlds insecticide. Native Indian variety were rainwater fed, but modern hybrids used for the mills need irrigation, which spreads pests. The 5% of cotton-bearing land in India uses 55% of all pesticides used in India. Before mechanisation, cotton was harvested manually and this unpleasant task was done by the lower castes, and in the United States by slaves of African origin.

Preparatory Processes- Preparation of yarn

Ginning, bale-making and transportation is done in the country of origin.

Opening and cleaning

Platt Bros. Picker

Cotton mills get the cotton shipped to them in large, 500 pound bales. When the cotton comes out of a bale, it is all packed together and still contains vegetable matter. The bale is broken open using a machine with large spikes. It is called an Opener.In order to fluff up the cotton and remove the vegetable matter, the cotton is sent through a picker, or similar machines. A picker looks similar to the carding machine and the cotton gin, but is slightly different. The cotton is fed into the machine and gets beaten with a beater bar, to loosen it up. It is fed through various rollers, which serve to remove the vegetable matter. The cotton, aided by fans, then collects on a screen and gets fed through more rollers till it emerges as a continuous soft fleecy sheet, known as a lap.
Blending,

Mixing & Scutching

Carding

Main article: Carding

Carding machine

Carding: the fibres are separated and then assembled into a loose strand (sliver or tow) at the conclusion of this stage.

The cotton comes off of the picking machine in laps, and is then taken to carding machines. The carders line up the fibres nicely to make them easier to spin. The carding machine consists mainly of one big roller with smaller ones surrounding it. All of the rollers are covered in small teeth, and as the cotton progresses further on the teeth get finer (i.e. closer together). The cotton leaves the carding machine in the form of a sliver; a large rope of fibres.

Note: In a wider sense Carding can refer to these four processes: Willowing- loosening the fibres; Lapping- removing the dust to create a flat sheet or lap of cotton; Carding- combing the tangled lap into a thick rope of 1/2 in in diameter, a sliver; and Drawing- where a drawing frame combines 4 slivers into one- repeated for increased quality.

Combing is optional,but is used to remove the shorter fibres, creating a stronger yarn.

A Combing machine

Drawing the fibres are straightened

Several slivers are combined. Each sliver will have thin and thick spots, and by combining several slivers together a more consistent size can be reached. Since combining several slivers produces a very thick rope of cotton fibres, directly after being combined the slivers are separated into rovings. These rovings are then what are used in the spinning process. Generally speaking, for machine processing a roving is about the width of a pencil.Next, several slivers are combined. Each sliver will have thin and thick spots, and by combining several slivers together a more consistent size can be reached. Since combining several slivers produces a very thick rope of cotton fibres, directly after being combined the slivers are separated into rovings. These rovings (or slubbings) are then what are used in the spinning process.
Generally speaking, for machine processing, a roving is about the width of a pencil.

Drawing frame: Draws the strand out

Slubbing Frame: adds twist, and winds on to bobbins

Intermediate Frames: are used to repeat the slubbing process to produce a finer yarn.

Roving frames: reduces to a finer thread, gives more twist, makes more regular and even in thickness, and winds on to a smaller tube.

Spinning- Yarn manufacture

Main article: Cotton-spinning machinery

Spinning

The spinning machines take the roving, thins it and twists it, creating yarn which it winds onto a bobbin.

In mule spinning the roving is pulled off a bobbin and fed through some rollers, which are feeding at several different speeds.This thins the roving at a consistent rate. If the roving was not a consistent size, then this step could cause a break in the yarn, or could jam the machine. The yarn is twisted through the spinning of the bobbin as the carriage moves out, and is rolled onto a cop as the carriage returns. Mule spinning produces a finer thread than the less skilled ring spinning.

The mule was an intermittent process, as the frame advanced and returned a distance of 5ft.It was the descendant of 1779 Crompton device. It produces a softer less twisted thread that was favoured for fines and for weft. It requires considerable skill, so was womens work.

The ring was a descendant of the Arkwright water Frame 1769. It was a continuous process, the yard was coarser, had a greater twist and was stronger so was suited to be warp. Requiring less skill it was mens work. Ring spinning is slow due to the distance the thread must pass around the ring, other methods have been introduced. These are collectively known as Break or Open-end spinning.

Sewing thread, was made of several threads twisted together, or doubled.

Checking

This is the process where each of the bobbins is rewound to give a tighter bobbin.

Folding and twisting

Plying is done by pulling yarn from two or more bobbins and twisting it together, in the opposite direction that that in which it was spun. Depending on the weight desired, the cotton may or may not be plied, and the number of strands twisted together varies.

Gassing

Main articles: Singe#Textiles and Gassing

Gassing is the process of passing yarn, as distinct from fabric very rapidly through a series of Bunsen gas flames in a gassing frame, in order to burn off the projecting fibres and make the thread round and smooth and also brighter. Only the better qualities of yarn are gassed, such as that used for voiles, poplins, venetians, gabardines, many Egyptian qualities, etc. There is a loss of weight in gassing, which varies’ about 5 to 8 per cent., so that if a 2/60′s yarn is required 2/56′s would be used. The gassed yarn is darker in shade afterwards, but should not be scorched.

Mule spinning

Mule spinning

Ring spinning

Ring spinning

Measurements

Main article: Units of textile measurement

Cotton Counts: The number of pieces of thread, 840 yards long needed to make up 1 lb weight. 10 count cotton means that 10×840 yd weighs 1 lb. This is coarser than 40 count cotton where 40×840 yards are needed. In the United Kingdom, Counts to 40s are coarse (Oldham Counts), 40 to 80s are medium counts and above 80 is a fine count. In the United States ones to 20s are coarse counts.

Hank: A length of 7 leas or 840 yards

Thread: A length of 54 in (the circumference of a warp beam)

Bundle: Usually 10 lb

Lea: A length of 80 threads or 120 yards

Denier: this is an alternative method. It is defined as a number that is equivalent to the weight in grams of 9000m of a single yarn. 15 denier is finer than 30 denier.

Tex: is the weight in grams of 1 km of yarn.

The worsted hank is only 560 yd
Weaving-fabric manufacture

The weaving process uses a loom. The lengthway threads are known as the warp, and the cross way threads are known as the weft. The warp which must be strong needs to be presented to loom on a warp beam. The weft, passes across the loom in a shuttle, that carries the yarn on a pirn. These pirns are automatically changed by the loom. Thus, the yarn needs to be wrapped onto a beam, and onto pirns before weaving can commence.
Winding

After being spun and plied, the cotton thread is taken to a warping room where the winding machine takes the required length of yarn and winds it onto warpers bobbins

Warping or beaming

A Warper

Racks of bobbins are set up to hold the thread while it is rolled onto the warp bar of a loom. Because the thread is fine, often three of these would be combined to get the desired thread count.[citation needed].

Sizing

Slasher sizing machine needed for strengthening the warp by adding starch.

Drawing in, Looming

The process of drawing each end of the warp separately through the dents of the reed and the eyes of the healds, in the order indicated by the draft.

Pirning (Processing the weft)

Pirn winding frame was used to transfer the weft from cheeses of yarn onto the pirns that would fit into the shuttle

Weaving

Main article: Power loom

At this point, the thread is woven. Depending on the era, one person could manage anywhere from 3 to 100 machines. In the mid nineteenth century, four was the standard number. A skilled weaver in 1925 would run 6 Lancashire Looms. As time progressed new mechanisms were added that stopped the loom any time something went wrong. The mechanisms checked for such things as a broken warp thread, broken weft thread, the shuttle going straight across, and if the shuttle was empty. Forty of these Northrop Looms or automatic looms could be operated by one skilled worker.

A Draper loom in textile museum,Lowell, Massachusetts

The three primary movements of a loom are shedding, picking, and beating-up.

Shedding: The operation of dividing the warp into two lines, so that the shuttle can pass between these lines. There are two general kinds of sheds-”open” and “closed.” Open Shed-The warp threads are moved when the pattern requires it-from one line to the other. Closed Shed-The warp threads are all placed level in one line after each pick.

Picking:The operation of projecting the shuttle from side to side of the loom through the division in the warp threads. This is done by the overpick or underpick motions. The overpick is suitable for quick-running looms, whereas the underpick is best for heavy or slow looms.

Beating-up: The third primary movement of the loom when making cloth, and is the action of the reed as it drives each pick of weft to the fell of the cloth.
The Lancashire Loom was the first semi-automatic loom. Jacquard looms and Dobby looms are looms that have sophisticated methods of shedding. They may be separate looms, or mechanisms added to a plain loom. A Northrop Loom was fully automatic and was mass produced between 1909 and the mid 1960s. Modern looms run faster and do not use a shuttle: there are air jet looms, water jet looms and rapier looms.

Measurements

Ends and Picks: Picks refer to the weft, ends refer to the warp. The coarseness of the cloth can be expressed as the number of picks and ends per quarter inch square, or per inch square. Ends is always written first. For example: Heavy domestics are made from coarse yarns, such as 10′s to 14′s warp and weft, and about 48 ends and 52 picks.

Associated job titles

Piecer

Scavenger

Weaver

Tackler

Draw boy

Pirner

Issues

When a hand loom was located in the home, children helped with the weaving process from an early age. Piecing needs dexterity, and a child can be as productive as an adult. When weaving moves from the home to the mill, children were often allowed to help their older sisters, and laws have to be made to prevent child labour becoming established,

Knitting- Fabric manufacture

A circular knitting machine.

Close-up on the needles.

Knitting by machine is done in two different ways; warp and weft. Weft knitting (as seen in the pictures) is similar in method to hand knitting with stitches all connected to each other horizontally. Various weft machines can be configured to produce textiles from a single spool of yarn or multiple spools depending on the size of the machine cylinder (where the needles are bedded). In a warp knit there are many pieces of yarn and there are vertical chains, zigzagged together by crossing the yarn.

Warp knits do not stretch as much as a weft knit, and it is run-resistant. A weft knit is not run-resistant, but stretches more, this is especially true if spools of Lycra are processed from separate spool containers and interwoven through the cylinder with cotton yarn giving the finished product more flexibility making it less prone to having a ‘baggy’ appearance. The average t-shirt is a weft knit.
Finishing- Processing of Textiles

The grey cloth,woven cotton fabric in its loom-state, not only contains impurities, including warp size, but requires further treatment in order to develop its full textile potential. Furthermore, it may receive considerable added value by applying one or more finishing processes.

Desizing

Depending on the size that has been used, the cloth may be steeped in a dilute acid and then rinsed, or enzymes may be used to break down the size.

Scouring

Scouring, is a chemical washing process carried out on cotton fabric to remove natural wax and non-fibrous impurities (eg the remains of seed fragments) from the fibres and any added soiling or dirt. Scouring is usually carried in iron vessels called kiers. The fabric is boiled in an alkali, which forms a soap with free fatty acids. (saponification). A kier is usually enclosed, so the solution of sodium hydroxide can be boiled under pressure, excluding oxygen which would degrade the cellulose in the fibre. If the appropriate reagents are used, scouring will also remove size from the fabric although desizing often precedes scouring and is considered to be a separate process known as fabric preparation. Preparation and scouring are prerequisites to most of the other finishing processes. At this stage even the most naturally white cotton fibres are yellowish, and bleaching, the next process, is required.

Bleaching

Main article: Textile bleaching

Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural coloration and remaining trace impurities from the cotton; the degree of bleaching necessary is determined by the required whiteness and absorbency. Cotton being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using an oxidizing agent, such as dilute sodium hydrochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the fabric is to be dyed a deep shade, then lower levels of bleaching are acceptable, for example. However, for white bed sheetings and medical applications, the highest levels of whiteness and absorbency are essential.

Mercerising

Main article: Mercerized cotton

A further possibility is mercerizing during which the fabric is treated with caustic soda solution to cause swelling of the fibres. This results in improved lustre, strength and dye affinity. Cotton is mercerized under tension, and all alkali must be washed out before the tension is released or shrinkage will take place. Mercerizing can take place directly on grey cloth, or after bleaching.
Many other chemical treatments may be applied to cotton fabrics to produce low flammability, crease resist and other special effects but four important non-chemical finishing treatments are:

Singeing

Main article: Singe#Textiles

Singeing is designed to burn off the surface fibres from the fabric to produce smoothness. The fabric passes over brushes to raise the fibres, then passes over a plate heated by gas flames.

Raising

Another finishing process is raising. During raising, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teeth to lift the surface fibres, thereby imparting hairiness, softness and warmth, as in flannelette.

Calendering

Main article: Calender

Calendering is the third important mechanical process, in which the fabric is passed between heated rollers to generate smooth, polished or embossed effects depending on roller surface properties and relative speeds.

Shrinking (Sanforizing)

Main article: Sanforization

Finally, mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to as sanforizing), whereby the fabric is forced to shrink width and/or lengthwise, creates a fabric in which any residual tendency to shrink after subsequent laundering is minimal.

Dyeing

Main article: Dyeing

Finally, cotton is an absorbent fibre which responds readily to colouration processes. Dyeing, for instance, is commonly carried out with an anionic direct dye by completely immersing the fabric (or yarn) in an aqueous dyebath according to a prescribed procedure. For improved fastness to washing, rubbing and light, other dyes such as vats and reactives are commonly used. These require more complex chemistry during processing and are thus more expensive to apply.

Printing

Main article: Textile printing

Printing, on the other hand, is the application of colour in the form of a paste or ink to the surface of a fabric, in a predetermined pattern. It may be considered as localised dyeing. Printing designs on to already dyed fabric is also possible.

Economic, environmental and political consequences of cotton manufacture

The growth of cotton is divided into two segments i.e. organic and genetically modified. . Cotton crop provides livelihood to millions of people but its production is becoming expensive because of high water consumption, use of expensive pesticides, insecticides and fertiliser. GM products aim to increase disease resistance and reduce the water required. The organic sector was worth 3 million. GM cotton, in 2007, occupied 43% of cotton growing areas..

The consumption of energy in form of water and electricity is relatively high, especially in processes like washing, de-sizing, bleaching, rinsing, dyeing, printing, coating and finishing. Processing is time consuming. The major portion of water in textile industry is used for wet processing of textile (70 per cent). Approximately 25 per cent of energy in the total textile production like fibre production, spinning, twisting, weaving, knitting, clothing manufacturing etc. is used in dyeing. About 34 per cent of energy is consumed in spinning, 23 per cent in weaving, 38 per cent in chemical wet processing and five per cent in miscellaneous processes. Power dominates consumption pattern in spinning and weaving, while thermal energy is the major factor for chemical wet processing.
Processing of other vegetable fibres- other processes

Flax

Main article: Flax

Flax is a bast fibre, which means it comes in bundles under the bark of the Linum usitatissimum plant. The plant flowers and is harvested.

Retting

Breaking

Scutching

Hackling or combing

It is now treated like cotton.
Jute

Main article: Jute

Jute is a bast fibre, which comes from the inner bark of the plants of the Corchorus genus. It is retted like flax, sundried and baled. When spinning a small amount of oil must be added to the fibre. It can be bleached and dyed. It was used for sacks and bags but is now used for the backing for carpets.

Hemp

Main article: Hemp

Hemp is a bast fibre from the inner bark of Cannabis sativa. It is difficult to bleach, it is used for making cord and rope.

Retting

Separating

Pounding

Other bast fibres

These bast fibres can also be used: kenaf, urena, ramie, nettle.

Other leaf fibres

Sisal is the main leaf fibre used; others are: abac and henequen.

Processing of Protein fibres

Wool comes from domesticated sheep. It forms two products, woolens and worsteds. The sheep has two sorts of wool and it in the inner coat that is used. This can be mixed with wool that has been recovered from rags. Shoddy is the term for recovered wool that is not matted, while mungo comes from felted wool. Extract is recovered chemically from mixed cotton/wool fabrics.

The fleece is cut in one piece from the sheep.This is then skirted to remove the soiled wool, and baled. It is graded into long wool where the fibres can be up to 15 in, but anything over 2.5 inches is suitable for combing into worsteds. Fibres less than that form short wool and are described as clothing or carding wool.

At the mill the wool is scoured in a detergent to remove grease (the yolk) and impurities. This is done mechanically in the opening machine. Vegetable matter can be removed chemically using sulfuric acid (carbonising). Washing uses a solution of soap and sodium carbonate. The wool is oiled before carding or combing.

Woollens: Use noils from the worsted combs, mungo and shoddy and new short wool

Worsteds

Combing: Oiled slivers are wound into laps, and placed in the circular comber. The worsted yarn gathers together to form a top. The shorter fibres or noils remain behind and are removed with a knife.

Angora

Silk

The processes in silk production are similar to those of cotton but take account that reeeled silk is a continuous fibre. The terms used are different.

Opening bales. Assorting skeins:where silk is sorted by colour, size and quality, scouring: where the silk is washed in water of 40 degrees for 12 hours to remove the natural gum, drying:either by steam heating or centrifuge, softening: by rubbing to remove any remaining hard spots.

Silk throwing (winding). The skeins are placed on a reel in a frame with many others. The silk is wound onto spools or bobbins.

Doubling and twisting. The silk is far too fine to be woven, so now it is doubled and twisted to make the warp, known as organzine and the weft, known as tram. In organzine each single is given a few twists per inch (tpi), and combine with several other singles counter twisted hard at 10 to 14 tpi. In tram the two singles are doubled with each other with a light twist, 3 to 6 tpi. Sewing thread is two tram threads, hard twisted and machine-twist is made of three hard twisted tram threads. Tram for the crepe process is twisted at up to 80 tpi to make it ‘kick up’.

Stretching. The thread is tested for consistent size. Any uneven thickness is stretched out. The resulting thread is reeled into containing 500 yd to 2500 yd. The skeins are about 50 in in loop length.

Dyeing: the skeins are scoured again, and discoloration removed with a sulphur process. This weakens the silk. The skeins are now tinted or dyed. They are dried and rewound onto bobbins, spools and skeins. Looming, and the weaving process on power looms is the same as with cotton.

Weaving. The organzine is now warped. This is a similar process to in cotton. Firstly, thirty threads or so are wound onto a warping reel, and then using the warping reels, the threads are beamed. A thick layer of paper is lain between each layer on the beam to stop entangling.

Processing of man made fibres

Discussion of types of man made fibres

Main article: Synthetic fibre

Synthetic fibres are the result of extensive development by scientists to improve upon the naturally occurring animal and plant fibres. In general, synthetic fibers are created by forcing, or extruding, fibre forming materials through holes (called spinnerets) into the air, thus forming a thread. Before synthetic fibres were developed, cellulose fibers were made from natural cellulose, which comes from plants.

The first artificial fibre, known as art silk from 1799 onwards, became known as viscose around 1894, and finally rayon in 1924. A similar product known as cellulose acetate was discovered in 1865. Rayon and acetate are both artificial fibres, but not truly synthetic, being made from wood. Although these artificial fibres were discovered in the mid-nineteenth century, successful modern manufacture began much later in the 1930s. Nylon, the first synthetic fibre, made its debut in the United States as a replacement for silk, and was used for parachutes and other military uses.[citation needed]

The techniques used to process these fibres in yarn are essentially the same as with natural fibres, modifications have to be made as these fibers are of great length, and have no texture such as the scales in cotton and wool that aid meshing.[citation needed]

Additional processes associated with man made fibres

See also

Glossary of textile manufacturing

References

^ a b c Majeed, A (January 19, 2009). “Cotton and textiles the challenges ahead”. Dawn-the Internet edition. http://www.dawn.com/2009/01/19/ebr5.htm. Retrieved 2009-02-12.

^ “Machin processes”. Spinning the Web. Manchester City Council: Libraries. http://www.spinningtheweb.org.uk/industry/machproc.php. Retrieved 2009-01-29.

^ a b c “Handicrafts India.”. Craft Revival Trust,. http://www.craftrevival.org/voiceDetails.asp?Code=25. Retrieved 2009-02-12.

^ “Cultivating and Harvesting”. Spinning the Web. Manchester City Council: Libraries. http://www.spinningtheweb.org.uk/m_display.php?irn=64&sub=machproc&theme=industry&crumb=Cultivation+&+harvesting. Retrieved 2009-01-29.

^ Collier 1970, p. 11

^ a b Collier 1970, p. 13

^ “Preparatory Processes”. Spinning the Web. Manchester City Council: Libraries. http://www.spinningtheweb.org.uk/m_display.php?irn=65&sub=machproc&theme=industry&crumb=Preparatory+processes. Retrieved 2009-01-29.

^ Collier 1970, pp. 66,67

^ Collier 1970, p. 69

^ Collier 1970, pp. 70

^ Hills 1993, p. 4

^ Collier 1970, pp. 71

^ Saxonhouse, Gary. SST Seminars “Technological Evolution in Cotton Spinning, 1878-1933″. Stanford University. http://siepr.stanford.edu/programs/SST_Seminars/Jeremy.pdf SST Seminars. Retrieved 2009-01-26.

^ Collier 1970, pp. 79

^ “Spinning”. Spinning the Web. Manchester City Council: Libraries. http://www.spinningtheweb.org.uk/m_display.php?irn=66&sub=machproc&theme=industry&crumb=Spinning. Retrieved 2009-01-29.

^ Curtis 1921, p. 1

^ Curtis 1921, p. Cotton count

^ Collier 1970, p. 3

^ Collier 1970, p. 74

^ “Weaving”. Spinning the Web. Manchester City Council: Libraries. http://www.spinningtheweb.org.uk/m_display.php?irn=66&sub=machproc&theme=industry&crumb=Weaving. Retrieved 2009-01-29.

^ Fowler, Alan (2003). Lancashire Cotton Operatives and Work, 1900-1950: A Social History of Lancashire Cotton Operatives in the Twentieth Century. Ashgate Publishing, Ltd.,. pp. 90. ISBN 0754601161, 9780754601166. http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=7GHLv-rLifgC&printsec=frontcover. Retrieved 21 Jan 2009.

^ Curtis 1921, p. Shed

^ Curtis 1921, p. Ends

^ Collier 1970, p. 118

^ “Finishing”. Spinning the Web. Manchester City Council: Libraries. http://www.spinningtheweb.org.uk/m_display.php?irn=68&sub=machproc&theme=industry&crumb=Finishing. Retrieved 2009-01-29.

^ GREENHALGH, DAVID (2005). “Cotton finishing”. http://website.lineone.net/~davghalgh/cotton_finishing.html. Retrieved 2009-02-12.

^ a b Collier 1970, p. 155

^ Collier 1970, p. 157

^ Collier 1970, p. 159

^ “Cotton: From Field to Fashion Facts behind the Fiber”. Talent2Trade. http://www.t2trade.co.uk/downloads/ComparingConventionalCottontoOrganic-TheFacts.pdf. Retrieved 2009-02-12.

^ Collier 1970, p. 16

^ Collier 1970, p. 17

^ Collier 1970, p. 19

^ “Silk manufacture”. Antiques Digest: Lost Knowledge from the Past. Old and Sold. Early 1900s. http://www.oldandsold.com/articles04/textiles17.shtml. Retrieved 2009-07-04.

Bibliography

Barfoot, J. R. (1840). The Progress of Cotton. Barfoot’s series of coloured lithographs of 1840 depicting the cotton manufacturing process.. Spinning the Web, Manchester Libraries: Darton. pp. 12. http://www.spinningtheweb.org.uk/bookbrowse.php?page=2&book=Barfoot&sub=overview&theme=overview&crumb=The Age of the Factory&submit_x=0&submit_y=0&submit=submit. Retrieved 11 Feb 2009.

Collier, Ann M (1970). A Handbook of Textiles. Pergamon Press. pp. 258. ISBN 0 08 018057 4, 0 08 018056 6.

Curtis, H P (1921), “Glossary of Textile Terms”, Arthur Roberts Black Book. (Manchester: Marsden & Company, Ltd. 1921), http://www.oneguyfrombarlick.co.uk/forum_topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=6424&FORUM_ID=99&CAT_ID=3&Forum_Title=Rare+Text+(Book+Transcriptions)&Topic_Title=A+Glossary+of+Textile+Terms, retrieved 2009-01-11

Gurr, Duncan; Hunt, Julian (1998), The Cotton Mills of Oldham, Oldham Education & Leisure, ISBN 0-902809-46-6, http://www.spinningtheweb.org.uk/a_results.php?x=5&y=7&QueryName=KeyWord&KeyWords=The+Cotton+Mills+of+Oldham,+brief+history+and+gazetteer

Hills, Richard Leslie (1993). Power from Steam: A History of the Stationary Steam Engine. Cambridge University Press,. pp. 244. ISBN 052145834X, 9780521458344. http://books.google.com/books?id=t6TLOQBhd0YC. Retrieved January 2009.

Nasmith, Joseph (1894), “Recent Cotton Mill Construction and Engineering”, Recent Cotton Mill Construction and Engineering. (John Heywood, Deansgate, Manchester, reprinted Elibron Classics), ISBN 1-4021-4558-6, http://www.archive.org/details/recentcottonmill00nasm, retrieved 2009-01-11

Roberts, A S (1921), “Arthur Robert’s Engine List”, Arthur Roberts Black Book. (One guy from Barlick-Book Transcription), http://oneguyfrombarlick.co.uk/forum_topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7926&FORUM_ID=99&CAT_ID=3&Forum_Title=Rare+Text+(Book+Transcriptions)&Topic_Title=ARTHUR+ROBERTS+ENGINE+LIST&whichpage=1&tmp=1#pid81483, retrieved 2009-01-11

External links

Cotton Year Book 1910 (Textile Mercury) Descriptions and calculations for purchasing all cotton processing machines.

1921 John Hetherington & Sons Catalogue Descriptions and illustrations of principal machines.

Profile of the Textiles Industry: US EPA Guidebook

v  d  e

Fibers

Natural

Animal

Alpaca Angora Bison Down Camel hair Cashmere Catgut Chiengora Guanaco Llama Mohair Pashmina Qiviut Rabbit Silk Sinew Spider silk Wool Vicua Yak

Vegetable

Abac Bamboo Coir Cotton Flax Hemp Jute Kapok Kenaf Pia Raffia palm Ramie Sisal Wood

Mineral

Asbestos Basalt Mineral wool Glass wool

Cellulose

Acetate Art silk Bamboo Lyocell (Tencel) Modal Rayon

Synthetic

Acrylic Aramid (Twaron Kevlar Technora Nomex) Carbon (Tenax) Microfiber Modacrylic Nylon Olefin Polyester Polyethylene (Dyneema Spectra) Spandex Vinalon Zylon

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Textile arts

Fundamentals:

Applique Crochet Dyeing Embroidery Fabric (textiles) Felting Fiber Knitting Lace Nlebinding Needlework Patchwork Passementerie Plying Quilting Rope Sewing Spinning Tapestry Textile printing Weaving Yarn

History of… :

Clothing and textiles Silk Quilting Textiles in the Industrial Revolution Timeline of textile technology

Regional and ethnic:

Andean Australian Aboriginal Hmong Korean Mori

Related:

Blocking Fiber art Mathematics and fiber arts Manufacturing

Preservation Terminology Textile industry Textile Museums Units of measurement Wearable fiber art

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Spinning

Materials

Noil Rolag Roving Sliver Staple Top Tow Woolen Worsted

Techniques

Carding Combing Long draw Short draw Twist per inch

Hand spinning tools

Distaff Niddy noddy Spindle Spinning wheel Spinners weasel

Industrial spinning

Cotton-spinning machinery Open end spinning Ring spinning Spinning frame Spinning jenny Spinning mule Throstle frame Water frame Wool combing machine

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Weaving

Weaves

Basketweave Charvet Coverlet Double weave Even-weave Lampas Oxford Pile weave Piqu Plain weave Satin weave Twill Gabardine

Components

Textiles Warp Weft Yarn

Tools and techniques

Chilkat weaving Fingerweaving Heddle Ikat Inkle weaving Jacquard weaving Kasuri Loom Navajo rug Shuttle Tablet weaving Tniko Tapestry

Types of looms

Dobby loom Jacquard loom Hattersley loom Lancashire loom Northrop loom Power loom Roberts Loom Warp weighted loom

Weavers

Acesas Ada Dietz Micheline Beauchemin Pamphile John Rylands Brigitta Scherzenfeldt Clara Sherman Judocus de Vos

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Cotton

Architects

Stott Sidney Stott (later Sir Philip) Edward Potts Potts, Pickup & Dixon F.W. Dixon & Son

Engine makers

Daniel Adamson Ashton Frost Ashworth & Parker Boulton & Watt Browett & Lindley Buckley & Taylor Carel Earnshaw & Holt Goodfellow Fairbairn W & J Galloway B Goodfellow Hicks Musgrave J & W McNaught Petrie of Rochdale George Saxon Scott & Hodgson Urmson & Thompson Yates of Blackburn Yates & Thom Whilans J & E Wood Woolstenhulmes & Rye

Machinery makers

Brooks & Doxey Butterworth & Dickinson Dobson & Barlow John Hetherington & Sons Joseph Hibbert Howard & Bullough Geo. Hattersley Asa Lees Mather & Platt Platt Brothers Taylor, Lang & Co Textile Machinery Makers Ltd Tweedales & Smalley

-

Oldham Limiteds Fine Spinners and Doublers Lancashire Cotton Corporation Courtaulds Bagley & Wright

Industrial processes

Textile manufacturing Cotton-spinning machinery Open end spinning Ring spinning Spinning frame Spinning jenny Spinning mule Water frame Roberts Loom Lancashire Loom

Lists of mills

LCC mills Bolton Bury Cheshire Derbyshire Lancashire Manchester Oldham Rochdale Salford Stockport Tameside Wigan

Categories: Textile industry | History of the textile industryHidden categories: All articles with unsourced statements | Articles with unsourced statements from February 2009

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Textile manufacturing

Friday, August 27th, 2010

Textile manufacturing

Justin Etzin

Thursday, August 26th, 2010

Justin Etzin

It all started in Hong Kong

Justin Etzin’s childhood was less ordinary than most. Born in Hong Kong, raised in the Seychelles and educated in Britain, he always stood out among his peers.

Justin Etzin lived in Hong Kong, with a cook, cleaner and chauffeur. Justin remembers his parents always stressed the good fortune of his upbringing: “I dressed myself and tidied my own room, when I could have just sat about like a little prince. My parents always reminded me of what I had to lose. I have never wanted my family’s money because, when money comes too easily, it can go just as easily. So I decided to work for myself – and work very hard.” He lived between Hong Kong and The Seychelles, where his father was made the Hon Consul to Seychelles from Hong Kong appointed by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Justin spent his early years between Australia, Hong Kong and The Seychelles, and then moved to the United Kingdom when he was eight years old.

The Late Bernard Etzin

Justin Etzin always had a lot to live up to. His father Bernard Jacob Etzin was born in Japan in 1930, the son of a silk exporter from Lithuania, he became, at the age of 15, part of the American army’s advance team in Hiroshima, ten days after the atomic bomb had been dropped on the city. He worked both as an interpreter and personal assistant to General Eisenhower. When he was 17, he arrived in New York with only .10 in his pocket. With three Japanese brothers named Yasui, he set up a company making sewing machines. Today, the Brother International Corporation is an empire selling a variety of goods in 150 countries which turns over annually .5 Billion US dollars.

He went to prep school in London, and took great interest in the artistic side of life. He was in the gymnastics team, the UK Fencing team and he excelled in Art and Acting. He went on to join Sylvia Young theatre School as well as Andrew Lloyd Webbers charity productions and ended up with leading parts in productions in the West End.

Justin Etzin was 12, and living in Knightsbridge in London, when he started his first business, car washing, targeting customers of Harrods and other local stores who parked on meters close to his house. He bought three T-shirts and had justin’s carwash printed on the front. He ran the business after school and on the weekends and he employed friends who he paid by the hour. By just 13, he was running a market stall on the Kings Road in London selling the latest gadgets that he imported specially from Hong Kong.

While at Bedales public School in England, Justin Etzin was involved in various sports, was secretary of The Wine Society and took a great interest in arts and crafts. He was nominated and named Head of the Year, but his real passion was his charity involvement and in particular his flair for raising money to help different causes. He earned a Gold Nose for his endeavors during one of the first Comic Reliefs, a prize that was given to Justin directly by the founder of The Charity, Comedian Lenny Henry. Justin had spent hours washing a fire engine and even sitting in a bath in a shop window in London all in the name of Charity.

Amnesty International

His position of Chairman of Amnesty International at School allowed him free reign to raise money for a cause he believed in, but to also set up and run the school “tuck shop” in the way that he knew would be the most profitable. Expansion, longer opening hours and a larger variety of stock. He set about raising money for the Charity, running the school “tuck shop” selling all those necessary creature comforts that teenagers miss whilst away from home. 100% of all the profits were donated to Amnesty International and money was used to raise awareness of the charity. Amnesty International is a worldwide movement of people who campaign for internationally recognized human rights for all. Justin was outraged by human rights abuses but inspired by the chance to be able to work to improve human rights through campaigning and letter writing. He use to buy stamps and writing supplies so that letters could be written out by pupils and sent pleading for the release of prisoners of conscience, as well as for fair and prompt trials for all political prisoners and those locked up without a trial at all.

Whilst at boarding school in the English countryside, in the days before mobile phones, Justin was on his way to his first million using the school pay phone as his only business tool. As technology developed, he remembers he was the first pupil in school who had a mobile phone. Often confiscated by teachers purely to see how one worked, it wasn’t before too long that the teachers accepted the idea and allowed him to continue to grow his little empire.

But it was the rewards of success and his ability to help others through his different businesses that inspired him to succeed. Whilst just 14 years old and still at boarding school, he founded a now legendary youth entertainment company Capital VIP, which catered for teenagers from public schools across the UK. Described by the press as “The most exclusive Teenage Parties in the World”. The sons and daughters of Politicians, celebrities, and even British and foreign Royalty attended and purchased tickets for his famous parties. Headlines hit around the World when Princess Dianas son, Prince William attended his famous parties, soon followed by then Prime Minister Tony Blairs Son, Euan Blair. Through incredible marketing skills he managed to get teenagers from 170 schools across the country all to attend his parties, and make the party company the most successful under 18 brand at the time. By the time he finished school he retired from the youth entertainment business and sold the company.

Oxford, England

He went on to attend Oxford Brookes University in Oxford, UK, where he studied Business and Law. He was a member of the Economics Club and The Oxford Rowing Club. Etzin was also active in tennis, swimming, skiing, horseback riding, and cycling, as well as a part of the UK vaulting gym team. Deciding after just one term to return to London to concentrate on his businesses, Justin opted for the university of Life and continued with his businesses.

By 18 he developed a passion for International Business and London Night Life

By 18 was now old enough to be running the top nights at some of London’s trendiest night clubs, including Browns, China White, and Cafe de Paris. The cutting edge events attracted the jet set, the fashion and film crowds from all over Europe and was the place a celebrity was to be seen if visiting London. Music artists such as Madonna, Prince and Puff Daddy attended regularly and even asked Justin Etzin to organize their private Birthday Parties. Film stars like Cuba Gooding Jr, Wood Harrelson, Nicole Kidman, and even Sports stars like Michael Jordan pitched up to experience the events whenever they visited London. Top International Models from around the world visited Justin’s Club nights and also held their own parties organized by Justin Etzin.

He went on to set up a multitude of different businesses in Europe. He was the first importer of the now legendary tiny Mercedes Smart Car sourced in Europe and marketed to the UK proving to Mercedes Benz how lucrative the UK market was when they had launched everywhere in Europe but had ruled out the UK due to what they thought was lack of demand. Justin Etzin was ahead of his time, proved them wrong and marketed the car as a fuel efficient green car and sold over 100 units in a matter of months. His passion for cars took him across the world on over five Gumball 3000 Celebrity Rallys. His driving partners included childhood friend Entrepreneur Lord Edward Spencer Churchill, and former girl friend Actress Alexandra Aitken. He even went on to set up a Specialist Car Rental company, providing vehicles to the film and entertainment industry with locations in London and Los Angeles.

Underlying all of these projects was Justin’s innovative eye for new opportunities and drive to make the projects a success.

Whilst still in his early twenties, he had businesses from the first Black Tie Restaurant food delivery company serving food from the most exclusive restuarnts in London direct to your door. A Cigarette and Cigar Club importing and delivering to members around Europe taking advantage of EU rulings allowing free trade within EU states. He published a magazine, owned a water sports centre, and even a PR and Corporate Events company that catered to a variety of Blue Chip Companies.

Due to his love of the arts and the film world he set up a film location and Events location company which provided locations for HollyWood Movies like Woody Allens first ever UK film, Match Point and TV series like Footballers Wives and Holly Oaks. Locations were provided all over Europe and even in far flung remote places of the world.

His Current International Businesses

Justin Etzin is currently CEO of Seychelles Capital. Seychelles Capital expertise includes corporate credit, event-driven, equity and equity-linked investing. A specialist provider of capital and management with particular expertise on the long term restructuring and consolidation of out of favor industries as well as the focused management and revitalization of the corporate / leisure entertainment industry. Seychelles Capital seeks to generate above average, risk-adjusted absolute rates of return. “Central to our investment methodology is the combination of fundamental analysis with a pro-active approach to trading. The flow of timely and actionable information is enhanced by the close integration of portfolio managers, research analysts and in-house risk management technology”. Seychelles Capital also specializes in cutting edge marketing, providing support for the various franchise operations that they license worldwide. Justin Etzin is responsible for the success of the company. As The CEO’ some things can’t be delegated. Creating culture, building the senior management team, and, indeed, the delegation itself can be done only by him. As the CEO he ultimately sets the direction.

Altitude 360

Justin Etzin founded Altitude 360, with the first of the franchises based in London. Described as London’s most exclusive event space, Altitude 360 has over 8300 Sq Ft of event space offering incredible views in the heart of Westminster, London. Officially opened by The leader of the Conservative Party, The Rt Hon David Cameron in September 2007. Altitude 360 specializes in providing modern corporate space to the business community. The ultimate location for corporate entertaining with the Ultimate Backdrop, Meetings, Product & Press Days, filmed Interviews, photographic shoots or a plethora of other corporate uses. Certain private functions are also held there, including upscale weddings and big budget private parties and charity gala events.

The Conservatives have used the venue regularly for press briefings and Policy announcements and announced in 2007 that it will be from Altitude 360 where the next battle of Britain will be fought for the leadership challenge. The UK Prime Minister, Gordon Brown launched British Tourism Week at Altitude 360 in 2008 which gave added credibility to the importance of this now important London landmark venue.

Foreign Politicians have also realized the value of the Altitude 360 brand. When USA Presidential Nominee John McCain visited London, he chose Altitude 360 for his only UK interview explaining why he was the right person for the most important office in the world. Altitude 360 provided the best location for the live filmed interview as well as the necessary security that the Iconic Millbank Tower provides.

In October 2008 plans were unveiled for Altitude 360 expansion, which will allow 360 degree views from the Altitude venue. The Mayor of London, Mayor Boris Johnson officially launched the concept and publicly paid tribute to Altitude 360 for its support in helping him become Mayor of London. He thanked Altitude 360 for the Vote in Confidence in London by doubling its size and becoming the Largest Venue in London with such Iconic Views.

The launch of The River Room as part of The Altitude 360 family has been a meticulous thought out process for both Justin and his team. As brand Manager of Altitude 360 and The River Room, the adaptation of a new venue as part of an existing brand was challenging to say the least. The River Room, London opened its doors in July 2009 to become Londons most sophisticated event space.

His Venues in London combined are now the largest Riverside Venues In London, known simply as Altitude 360 and The River Room.

Together they now have a square footage at over 15,000 SqFt, with stunning, 360-degree views of the London skyline as well as direct views at River Level. Situated by the Thames, with function rooms on the 2nd and the 29th floor of Westminster’s Millbank Tower. The two main rooms can now hold up to 1200 between them or 600 in each space. The space offers two cinema / auditoriums at River Level holding 300 and 200 respectively. At the skyline level there is the possibility of having over 8300 SqFt of open space or a multitude of different spaces that are created by hi tech electric walls that neatly divide the rooms into elegant individual spaces each with their own unique views. A great blank canvas potential, plus hi-tech facilities such as twelve 60 inch state-of-the-art plasma screens, which can be linked to a roving camera for live video feeds. The venue’s expansion ensures it will remain as one of the top choices for event organisers in the city.

Further Altitude 360 locations are planned for Paris, Geneva, and New York, whilst the franchised concept now operates as a franchise opportunity in countries across the world.

Justin Etzin founded Salt & Pepper Private Food Design providing catering to numerous high end venues. The concept was simple, offering exquisite food for events from Michelin Star trained Chefs. The first franchise was based in “Londons Larder”, New Covent Garden Market. Salt & Pepper London uses the finest & freshest ingredients from suppliers literally on their doorstep. He franchised the concept and Salt and Pepper now operates as a franchise opportunity in countries across the world.

The Seychelles Islands

In the Seychelles he is in early planning stages of an Eco development project consisting of a Boutique Hotel & spa with 20 freehold Private Residences. The five year project is in early concept stages, with architects carefully designing the ultimate residences so as to have as little impact on the environment, yet to allow the property to be world class. The 40 acre estate is nestled amongst the granitic rocks shelves in the middle of the Morne Blanc national park. The twenty eco residences will have extensive grounds, with mountain spring water feeding each property & with unrivalled sea views of the Seychelles National park & inner islands.

His Personal Life & Interests

Justin Etzin is an Aquarius and truly is a water baby. He enjoys swimming, scuba diving, water skiing, and deep-sea fishing. On land he’s just as active as he often goes horse riding, plays Tennis, and is a keen Snow Skier as well. He maintains hes just at home on a beach in Seychelles as he is in a city like New York or LA. He loves entertaining, cooking and throwing dinner parties with great food and close friends. Always a real adventurer, he loves Traveling and experiencing other cultures.

Following his fathers death from Cancer, he runs a charitable foundation providing resources to allow charities to increase their awareness and hold events to raise money. He also provides unique experiences to those who are in palliative care as well as also providing equipment for hospitals that need urgent funding.

Justin Etzin then followed in his late fathers early footsteps and is now based between The Seychelles, (where he is resident and he considers his home), Europe and The USA.

He finds the challenge of achieving the impossible, and being the under dog is what makes his work so interesting. He lives my the motto, “I try to live life to the full and learn from yesterday, live for today, and hope for tomorrow.”

Courtaulds

Thursday, August 26th, 2010

Courtaulds

History

Foundation

The Company was founded by George Courtauld and his cousin Peter Taylor (1790-1850) in 1794 as a silk, crepe and textile business at Pebmarsh in north Essex trading as George Courtauld & Co. In 1810, his American-born son Samuel Courtauld was managing his own silk mill in Braintree, Essex.

In 1818, George Courtauld returned to America, leaving Samuel Courtauld and Taylor to expand the business now known as Courtauld & Taylor by building further mills in Halstead and Bocking. In 1825 Courtauld installed a steam engine at the Bocking mill, and then installed power looms at Halstead. His mills, however, remained heavily dependent on young female workers in 1838, over 92% of his workforce was female.

By 1850, Courtauld employed over 2,000 people in his three silk mills, and he had recruited partners including (in 1828) his brother, George Courtauld II (1802-1861) and in 1849 – fellow Unitarian social reformer Peter Alfred Taylor (1819-1891 son of Peter Taylor who died the following year). By this time, Courtauld was a very wealthy man but was also suffering from deafness. He planned to spend more time on his country estate Gosfield Hall near Halstead, but could not convince himself to retire, and continued to play an active role in the company until just before he died in March 1881.

His great nephew Samuel Courtauld (1876-1947) became chairman of the Courtauld company in 1921 but is chiefly remembered today as the founder of the Courtauld Institute of Art in London. William Julien Courtauld was also a benefactor of the arts: he gave artworks to the Essex County Council chamber at Chelmsford and the town hall at Braintree in the 1930s.

Expansion

Courtaulds had entered the market of cellulosics (viscose and acetate) in North America with the setting up of the American Viscose Corporation (AVC) in 1909. The investment in the USA was highly successful, but its sale was enforced in 1941 as part of the negotiations which preceded Lend-Lease.

Meanwhile in Europe Courtaulds expanded its cellulosics business both directly and in joint ventures, including British Cellophane.

In 1945 Courtaulds remained one of the four groups which dominated the man-made fibre industry in Europe (counting the German VGF and the Dutch AKU as one group, and including also the CTA–later merged into Rhone-Poulenc~-in France, and Snia Viscose in Italy). Courtaulds activities in continental Europe consisted in a wholly owned, one-factory viscose fibre business employing some 3,000 people in France, a 50% share in a similar business in Germany (of which the other 50% was owned by VGF, the major competitor), and a minority shareholding which controlled 20% of the voting capital in the Italian firm Snia Viscosa, also primarily a viscose fibre producer. This activity expanded until the 1960s, when these products were replaced by newer developments

Post World War II

Courtaulds was one of the earliest companies in the UK to establish an economics department. In the three decades following World War II that department made notable contributions to the understanding of investment appraisal and the formulation of British – and later European – trade policy. The function also played a significant role in the development of Courtaulds from a rather sedate, man-made fibers producer to the world’s largest textile manufacturer, a position the company attained in the mid-1970s. The economics department then influenced the early stages of the subsequent extensive restructuring of the company, a process that culminated in the demerging of its textile activities as a separately quoted company in March 1990
Break-Up

By the late 1980s, the manufacture of clothing was quickly moving to South East Asia, and China. Courtaulds had shut many of its UK based factories and moved production to new Asian based sites but its main customer Marks and Spencer wanted better prices. Secondly, its main profit was coming from its chemicals business, which was being held back by the textiles business.

In 1990, Courtaulds plc split itself in to two parts:

Courtaulds textiles – the fibre manufacture and clothing business

Courtaulds plc – the chemicals business

Courtaulds plc

The global chemicals industry was in a distinct recession, and the company faced difficult times. The company employed 23,000 and had 2 billion ( billion) in annual revenue, with 30% from the United States, 40% from Europe and 15% from Asia-Pacific. CEO Sipko Huismans had focused the company on rationalisation and cost cutting: We have to cut costs. We can’t count on sales growth to pay us more or to allow us to buy more of our favorite things. In 1991, the company closed its French viscose plant, allowing its other plants to boost output to 93% capacity, compared with an industry average of 75%. This enabled the share price to double in the first three years following the demerger.
Although prices were stable, the company had a potential revenue generator in Tencel, a man-made fibre Courtaulds had spent 100 million and 10 years bringing to market. Like viscose, Tencel is made from cellulose derived from dissolved wood pulp. While rayon production generates large amounts of sulfurous waste, Tencel is made with a “closed loop” chemical process in which the solvent can be filtered and reused. The final product is far stronger than rayon or cotton, which allows a huge variety of different forms and feels – from ultrasoft yet strong denim jeans, to shirts that feel like silk, to scarves that ape the texture of cashmere.
To aid its goal of expanding its business, specifically in Asia-Pacific, Courtaulds plc delivered part of its development in joint ventures, particularly with Akzo Nobel. In 2000, Akzo-Nobel proposed a merger, which the EU approved subject to the sale of Courtauld’s aerospace business.

In October 2000, PPG Industries announced it had agreed to buy Courtaulds Aerospace for 2.5 million. Based in Glendale, CA, the aerospace business has annual sales of approximately 0 million (U.S.), employs 1,200 people. It manufactures sealants in Glendale, CA, and Shildon, England; coatings and sealants in Mojave, CA; glazing sealants at Gloucester City, NJ; and coatings at Gonfreville, France. The business also operates 14 application-support centres in North America, Europe, Africa, Asia and Australia.

Courtaulds Textiles

Courtaulds Textiles is Britain’s largest producer of lingerie and underwear. The organization employs around 20,000 people across 16 countries in Europe, North America and Asia, and has annual turnover exceeding 1billion, 40% of which is earned by sales to Marks & Spencer. It markets its products under leading retailer labels across the world as well as its own reputed brands which include Aristoc, Berlei and Gossard and Well. Additionally, Courtaulds Textiles had an international network of lace and stretch fabric businesses.

The business has moved most of its manufacturing jobs offshore, most of which is now divested in joint ventures for flexibility. Investments in Sri Lanka include joint venture partnership with MAS Holdings (Pvt) Ltd, a 2million investment which employs 2,000 people and manufacturers lingerie and leisurewear for retailers including Victoria’s Secret, Marks & Spencer, BHS and Hanro. A second joint venture of 3.1million employs 1,100 and exclusively manufactures men’s underwear and baby wear for Marks & Spencer. A 3million expansion phase is underway which will increase the 700 strong workforce to 1,100
In 2000, Sara Lee attempted to acquire Courtaulds Textiles. A bitter battle ensued and Courtaulds issued various counter measures to survive as an independent company. However, Sara Lee’s chairman announced that the acquisition will strengthen our European presence and give us access to a range of exciting market opportunities – so they increased their offer to 150million, and won.
While the name Courtaulds disappeared in the chemical merger with Akzo Nobel, the Courtaulds textile name remains as a division in Sara Lee. However, to survive it again had to slash jobs and axed many of its factories as it grappled with the high costs of manufacturing in the UK and M&S, under Stuart Rose, continuing to squeeze its suppliers. In February 2005, Brenda C. Barnes became the chairman and CEO of Sara Lee – and had a far more focussed strategy. Courtaulds was seen as basically a British-based brand and company, and did not fit with a global business. Barnes agreed sale of the business was right, and for some time tried to sell the Courtaulds business, which had a turnover in 2005 of 0m (302m), but was hampered by Courtaulds’ pension deficit. It was eventually agreed with the UK pension regulator to increase payments into the deficit from 20m to 32m a year until 2015. In May 2006, Sara Lee announced the sale of Courtaulds Textiles to PD Enterprise Limited, a major supplier of clothing to Courtaulds Textiles. No sale price was announced, but it was announced that Sara Lee would continue to hold the 3 million (260 million) pension deficit, and Brenda Barnes commented that Sara Lee had effectively “given away” the unit.
PD Enterprise Ltd., a privately held company based in Hong Kong, operates nine facilities that produce more than 120 million garments annually. Its products include bras, underwear, nightwear, swim and beachwear, formalwear and casualwear, jackets and coats, babywear and socks.

Brands

Berlei – ladies’ underwear

Gossard – ladies’ underwear

Aristoc – ladies’ Hosiery

Pretty Polly – ladies’ Hosiery

Elbeo- ladies’ Hosiery

Production sites

Flintshire – German Glanzstoff Manufacturing Company started an artificial silk factory in Flint in 1907. During World War I the factory was taken over by Courtaulds in 1917, who in 1920 built Castle Works followed the Deeside Mill in 1922. At its height Courtaulds employed over 10,000 people at four sites. At Greenfield, Flintshire, some 5 miles further down the Dee estuary, two additional large rayon production facilities existed from 1936 onwards, named Number 1 and Number 2. These mills employed over 3,000 people. Textile production declined from 1950, and Aber works shut initially in 1957, opened for rayon in 1966, and pulled down in 1984. Castle works closed in 1977 and Deeside Mill in 1989. The number 1 facility at Greenfield was mothballed in 1978, and the entire site was decommissioned in the mid 1980s.
Preston – A large rayon production facility, called the Red Scar mill, existed in Preston. It employed around 4,000 people. It was decommissioned in 1980.
Northern Ireland – A rayon facility existed in Carrickfergus, which was designed specifically to make a fibre suitable for the Irish linen industry . Many of the latterly held British-based jobs were based in the grant-aided infrastructure of Northern Ireland. Limavady employed 185 jobs, which were lost in May 2004.

Wolverhampton – Dunstall Hall Works – Rayon facility.

Coventry – Foleshill Road Works

Courtaulds Grafil – Production of Carbon Fibre for use in sports, aerospace and automotive industries

National Plastics – Production of specialised plastic products including British military bullet proof helmets

Courtaulds Engineering – Design of plant, production of spinneretts.

Courtalds Factory at Spondon in Derbyshire

Derby – Spondon Works – Acetate fibre, water soluble polymers

Grimsby – based on the Humber Bank this site produced Tencel fibre. Sold in 1999 to Acordis, it is now owned by the Lenzing Group.

Trafford Park – Manufacture of Carbon Disulphide, base of Cowburn & Cowpar (chemical transport)

References

^ Periodical Titles by Alphabet | Business solutions from AllBusiness.com

^ Courtaulds Textiles

^ a b Bulletin EU 6-1998 (en): 1.3.50

^ Print Version – International Herald Tribune

^ Login – Paint and Coatings Industry

^ Courtaulds Textiles Plc

^ Brand Finance

^ HONG KONG: PD Enterprise purchases Courtaulds

^ Sara Lee offloads Courtaulds division (The Times)

^ BBC – North East Wales Flintshire history – Courtaulds history

^ Hansard report

^
External links

Full history of company

Courtaulds background

Courtaulds in Europe

v d e

Cotton

Architects

Stott Sidney Stott (later Sir Philip) Edward Potts Potts, Pickup & Dixon F.W. Dixon & Son

Engine makers

Daniel Adamson Ashton Frost Ashworth & Parker Boulton & Watt Browett & Lindley Buckley & Taylor Carel Earnshaw & Holt Goodfellow Fairbairn W & J Galloway B Goodfellow Hicks Musgrave J & W McNaught Petrie of Rochdale George Saxon Scott & Hodgson Urmson & Thompson Yates of Blackburn Yates & Thom Whilans J & E Wood Woolstenhulmes & Rye

Machinery makers

Brooks & Doxey Butterworth & Dickinson Dobson & Barlow John Hetherington & Sons Joseph Hibbert Howard & Bullough Geo. Hattersley Asa Lees Mather & Platt Platt Brothers Taylor, Lang & Co Textile Machinery Makers Ltd Tweedales & Smalley

-

Oldham Limiteds Fine Spinners and Doublers Lancashire Cotton Corporation Courtaulds Bagley & Wright

Industrial processes

Textile manufacturing Cotton-spinning machinery Open end spinning Ring spinning Spinning frame Spinning jenny Spinning mule Water frame Roberts Loom Lancashire Loom

Lists of mills

LCC mills Bolton Bury Cheshire Derbyshire Lancashire Manchester Oldham Rochdale Salford Stockport Tameside Wigan

v d e

Original companies of FT 30 in the United Kingdom

As of 1 July 1935.

Associated Portland Cement Austin Motor Bass Bolsover Colliery Callenders Cables & Construction Coats Courtaulds Distillers Dorman Long Dunlop Rubber Electrical & Musical Industries Fine Spinners and Doublers General Electric Company Guest Keen & Nettlefolds Harrods Hawker Siddeley Imperial Chemical Industries Imperial Tobacco International Tea Co. Stores London Brick Murex Patons and Baldwins Pinchin Johnson & Associates Rolls-Royce Tate & Lyle Turner & Newall United Steel Companies Vickers-Armstrongs Watney Combe & Reid F. W. Woolworth & Co

Categories: 1794 establishments | Companies established in 1794 | Companies established in the 18th century | Manufacturing companies of the United Kingdom | Chemical companies of the United Kingdom | Textile manufacturers of the United Kingdom | Companies formerly listed on the London Stock Exchange | Defunct manufacturing companies of the United Kingdom | Buildings and structures in Essex | Companies based in Essex | Nottinghamshire

I am a professional editor from Chinese Manufacturers, and my work is to promote a free online trade platform.
http://www.chinaqualitycrafts.com/ contain a great deal of information about
bmw e36 body kits , ultra media dashboard
welcome to visit!

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A ‘candidential’ Who’s Who

Wednesday, August 25th, 2010

A ‘candidential’ Who’s Who

A ‘CANDIDENTIAL’ WHO’S WHO

A New Astrological Look At The Current Presidential Candidates

by Suzanne White

Buffalo. June 2006 – Bill Clinton was working the back of the room at Chef’s, a busy checkered tablecloth spaghetti restaurant in the city center. Like a friendly navy blue Lab, Clinton bounded up to table after table of astounded Buffalonians, shook hands with them all, kissed the regulation number of babies and hugged one or two huge flowered ladies over sixty real hard till their glasses fell askew.

“He’s so tall.” gasped my sister-in-law, Nicole. “and handsome.”

What could Bill Clinton be doing in downtown Buffalo? thought I, pretending to study the huge plasticated menu, whilst keeping an eye peeled on Big Bill’s progress.

My brother George, a terminally tranquil seventy-two year old convicted life term Republican was suddenly in motion. First, he fidgeted his beer glass to his lips and squinted in amazement over top of the glass’s rim as the immense blue-suited apparition hove our way. By the time Clinton was upon us, George had gone all sedate and respectful. He had decorously placed his napkin on the table beside his plate, gotten to his feet and extended his hand. “Mr. President.” I heard him say reverentially. “Tickled pink to meet you.”

Bill shook his hand amiably, performing that chummy demeaning hold onto your wrist thing that patronising men do to each other sometimes. It looks like the first guy is stealing the other guy’s right cuff link. But Bill was just being his charming presidential self. “What should I order here?” Bill asked George. “They say it’s pretty good. What would you suggest I eat here today?”

The last time I had seen my brother paralyzed was at Buffalo Children’s Hospital when he had polio at age 12. The look on his face said, Do I advise this Democrat punk about the hearty home-cookin’ here in my favorite Italian restaurant? Or should I steer him to the heartburn column?

Clinton stood fast, waiting for his culinary tip. With that dopey

Labrador grin on his face, he looked so calm he might have been asleep.

To an experienced politician like Bill Clinton, Republicans probably have a certain smell. To me, it looked like Bill had diagnosed old Georgie from afar and decided to try to do a quickie on the spot party conversion. His unspoken message was: Hey chum. You got an Armani knit polo shirt on. Gucci loafers without tassles. You look like a guy who knows his Italian cuisine. The truth, they say, is the ultimate con.

Still immobilized, my brother half sat, holding the menu up so as Bill could easily read all the available dishes: Pasta, Calzones, Lasagna, Meatballs – the usual suspects. “You ought to have this one. Mr. President.” intoned George, pointing to a square in the center of the menu. “It’s the specialty of the house.”

“Did you order that?” Bill wondered. George nodded and smiled goofily up at Bill. Yes indeedy, he had.

The die was cast. My strictly conservative Reaganite brother George had just fallen in love.

By now, the entire restaurant was in heat. A kind of groupie estrus malaise had come over all the women. I was the worst hit. A 68 year old 16-year-old with a digital camera. I kept hot flashing it up at the towering Bill as he still stood near our table now talking to Chef’s Restaurant’s owner who is of course called Chef.

“You were born on the same day as me,” Chef told Bill. “August 19, 1946.”

“Oh that is a co-incidence now, isn’t it?” said Bill.

I had written a New York Times Op-ed piece about Clinton when he was running against Dole. It was all about New Astrology signs and how Clinton was a Leo born in a Dog year and Dole was a Virgo born in a Pig year and what that meant for the outcome of the election. I had, even back then, compared Bill Clinton to a Labrador who jumps up on you and laps off your makeup just to say hello. Eager and friendly but perhaps not all that well-bred.

FYI, this Bill Clinton person is a giant. I looked up and shouted over the restaurant’s hysterical din, “You’re a Leo/Dog! You are both Leo/Dogs.”

The way those men looked down at me then made me sure that both Clinton and the Chefster had me figured me for some batty old woman who lives half-snockered in a trailer under the overpass outside the city limits and who dreams of having something – anything – even her obituary – published in The New York Times.

But Bill had nonetheless connected. “A Leo/Dog huh?” He hollered back down to me.

“Yes.” I shouted. “You are a Leo and you were born in a Dog year. That makes you a Leo/Dog in New Astrology. I invented it. It’s a book!”

Now I was really a rattling loony tunes. I got that old sizzly feeling of impending immortality. I was talking to a former president of the United States about The New Astrology. It was like sitting right next to Salvador Dali in the cinéma in Paris. I did that once too. It also felt sizzly.

“Well,” said Bill, leaning down to me. “I’m a Leo/Dog, huh.

“Yep.” I chirped. “That’s what I said. You are a Leo/Dog.”

He smiled, placed his big hand on my shivering shoulder, gave a nod and confided, “I’ve been called worse.”

I can’t help it. I brake for a man with brains. For me, in a man, income level, social status and availability are irrelevant. They have to be smart and make me laugh. Otherwise, what good are they?

Now let’s have a look at the current presidential candidates… and their brains.

D- Barack Obama is a Leo too. He was born in 1961. In The New Astrology, that makes him a Leo/Ox. Like Napoleon Bonaparte and Louis Armstrong and Monica Lewinski. Dictator, jazzman and uh…. Tough cookie?

D- Hillary Clinton is a Scorpio. She was born in 1947. She’s a Scorpio/Pig, Like Marie-Antoinette and Chiang-Kai-Shek and our own Kevin Kline. These whiz kid people drip canny authenticity. They often benefit from unusual destinies.

D- John Edwards? He’s a Gemini born in 1953. That’s a Gemini/Snake like John F Kennedy and Bobby Dylan and Brooke Shields. Irresistibly attractive, meticulous, slick and ever so clever at fibbing.

D- Dennis Kuchinich is a Libra born in 1946, a Dog year. There are lots of famous Libra/Dogs like: George Gershwin and Susan Sarandon and Brigitte Bardot. Good people. Just. Fair. Honest. Hardworking and frequently out-of-sorts with the mainstream.

R- Rudy Giuliani is a Gemini/Monkey from 1944. He’s in good company with the Duchess of Windsor and the Marquis de Sade. Agile. Shrewd. Imperious. A tester of social convention. .

R- Mike Huckabee is a Virgo/Goat from 1943. There’s a slew of famous Virgo/Goats . A most eclectic lot they are too: Larry Hagman, George Wallace and Jean-Claude Killy. Eccentric. Lovable. Large-scale. Dogmatic. But can he ski?

R- John McCain was born in late August of 1936. He’s a Virgo/Rat. A couple of his birthmates are song and dance men, Maurice Chevalier and Gene Kelly. The sunny kind of Rat. Capable and power hungry.

R- Mitt Romney is a Pisces born in 1947 which makes him a Pisces/Pig in New Astrology. Pigs are naïve but they can very convincing. He shares a New Astrology sign with L. Ron Hubbard. Is this the sign of the preacher man?

Each of these New Astrology© signs is double. They blend the person’s western month sign with his or her Chinese Year sign and come up with a whole new character type. Caution! Cast not thy vote before swine.

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Book FAQ

Tuesday, August 24th, 2010

Book FAQ

A well-mannered new-fangled to read?
I read the Percy Jackson and the Olympians, twilight, and the sword of truth and I loved them Is there something similar to them? And I would love if it was a seriesThanks Anything by Kevin Brooks , I recommend ‘ Martyn Pig ‘ Read the mortal instruments series by Cassandra Clare. It’s about shadowhunters which are essentially…

A world book encyclopedia?
I really really need the author of the pregnancy section in an encyclopedia. its volume 15, the 1998 edition. does anybody own it? i need the author. the pages are 734 to 735. if anybody has this please answer! thxx first right answer get 10 pts If you need this for a citation (a footnote or endnote), please…

A writer have successfully conveyed a character’s motivation when the?
A. reader can identify with the character. B. character is respected by the other characters surrounded by the story. C. character is completely predictable. D. reader understands why the character does something. D D

A writer next to whom you hold feel rapport as economically as a writer next to whom you own feel little or no rapport?
can you Recall a writer with whom you have felt rapport as very well as a writer with whom you have felt little or no rapport. What made the difference? Provide suggestions for building rapport between the writer and…

A writer’s worst nightmare: Writer’s Block – Need support!?
Um um um two questions :]First of all…are the any like…ways of getting rid of writer’s block? xP because i’ve have for a couple of days now and its’ getting on my nerves =.=Second…I need..’romantic’ places of meeting approaching, your true love for the first time, kinda thing? xP All mine are completely un-romantic…

Abigail of The Crucible hasty put somebody through the mill!?
Can she be excused or pardoned because outside forces made her the way she is? why or why not? Abigail is responsible for her own actions. No one forced her to charge people of witchcraft or lie in court. I don’t reflect on that she should be excused for accusing people and ruining…

Abigail williams of the crucible?
im doing a project in english III where we have to choose a role of the crucible ( i chose abigail williams, obviously.) and we have to come up with ten items (small plenty to bring to school) that in one way or another represent them in the bearing we see them. for example, so far i have…

About a writing contest?
i’m curious about the prizes, because a lot of them are xxxx$+ publication. my question is:does the publication of your work give you any benefit (like 1$ per selled book)? Not usually, no, but I would suggest reading the competition rules. Generally, though, the prize is either some money + publication in an anthology or on a website…

About Dante’s Inferno?
Canto 4 they are in the first layer of hell.Who from now a days would fit surrounded by that category?Level 1 and virtuous Pagan A real interesting question. No one I can ruminate of really fits Dante’s definition of a virtuous pagan.The closest person I can think of would be Ghandi and the Dali Lama.wl

About Lauren Myracle’s books?
Who’s a fan? I am.. What books of hers have you read? Give as many opinion as possible on her books.I’ve read:ElevenTwelveThirteenRhymes With WitchesThe Fashion Disaster that Changed My LifePeace, Love and Baby Ducks(I think that’s it)Should I read Bliss? I read the sequel to it (Rhymes With Witches) and is it scary? I’m 11 by the way.

About Nora Robert books?
has there been any nora roberts books made into films. this is so i can read them and later watch the film. please.thankyou the lifetime channel make films of her books on a regular basis (usually starring Heather Locklear, Jerry O’Connell, or LeAnne Rimes)if you get OnDemand then they usually hold any one of the films on Lifetime OnDemand.also…

About the book Frankenstein?
do the monsters eloquence and persuasivness make it easier for the reader to sympathize with him;;why? && why do you believe most film versions of the story present the monster as inarticulate or mute. I believe that the monster’s eloquent speech and persuasiveness do label it easier for the reader to sympathize with him. When you first read about…

About the book Lock and Key by Sarah Desson!!?
Ok, so in my English class, i have to do a report about a book. u enjoy to tell what it’s about(i done that) and then you have to draw pictures of a scene surrounded by the book. what scenes should i draw?(Pick a easy 1!! i’m not really an artist and i only…

About the book War And Peace?
I’ve just started reading it, and I’m at that early point in the book where on earth you’re deciding whether you want to keep reading or not. I’m choosing to read it, but I’m getting a LOT of negative comments going on for it.I wanted to know why people are so negative something like it, and if…

About the cons of self-publishing…?
I asume you have less security for a return on your investment as within is no publisher to sell and market your book. Am I correct in my assumption? Do you maybe have any experience it this? the main con is the expense. you pay to publish it, you salary to market it, you pay for everything.

About the House of Night series!?
The library are taking ages get the third book out of the series and i really want to know what happens, does anyone want to ruin it for me please? I know i probably sound batty now but really want no. basically wat happens is she is trying to relieve stevie ray to keep her humanity. vampires…

About the story of the pious samaritanm?
in the story find justice and benifescence…i need it presently..thank you “A Jewish man was traveling on a trip from Jerusalem to Jericho, and he was attacked by bandits. They stripped him of his clothes, hammer him up, and left him half dead beside the road. By adjectives a priest came along. But when he saw…

About the Twilight book Breaking sunup?
I just started reading it right now and i finished Eclipse the other day but i quality lost like i missed something cuz it just starts with adjectives this stuff happening.The other one ended with edward and bella going to inform charlie right??Seriouse answers no twilight is gay or whatever. TWILIGHT IS GAY AND IN THE END…

Accelerated reader practice minister to? Angels and Demons… for society who’ve read the book lone?
So I’m in high school, and I haven’t taken an AR tryout since elementary school. I have to take it tomorrow, I already ruined it once… the book is very large and I couldn’t remember some things, the questions be vague… things like, what did he do? ARRG!…

Accelerated Reader Test Answers to Peak by Roland Smith?
i really need the answers ASAP, i read the book last year and i need to purloin a test on tomorrow!please help! One that’s cheating, and two if it is the same Accelerated Reader Tests my siblings hold then there are multiple versions for respectively book. Sorry. 1. B2. D3. C4. D5. A6. C7.

Does anyone know when the subsequent maximum tide comes out?
i need to know. if anyone has a relaible date please tell me If ur talkin abt Maximum Ride, the foreign book is called ‘Fang’ and its comin out on March 10th. i love maximum ride books Source(s): internet

Does anyone know where on earth can I catch a brand different copy of the forbidden team game?And when will it be published again?
I have all her books that was published this year. When I checked her website to see what other books I haven’t read,the forbidden activity caught my attention. And from lots of people reviews,it seems like a devout book.

Does anyone know where on earth i can read the WHOLE crosses by Shelley Stoehr book online? plzplz<3 its important(:?
i found a site where i read the first five chapters,and i’ve gotten really really into it.it’s an amazing book,and i’d like to verbs reading it.but my school library doesnt have it.& i cant order it due to my mom&…

Does anyone know where on earth I can find a pdf of A Gift of Fire by Sara Baase?
try these: http://rapid4me.com/?q=gift+of+fire+pdf http://www.ebooknetworking.net/ebooks/a-… Source(s): http://www.google.com/search?q=Gift+of+F… maybe you can find answers here: www.fullstores.com50%off ca,ed hardy t-shirt jeans,coach handbag,air max90,dunk,polo t-shirt,,lacoste t-shirt air jordan for public sale,,nfl nba jersy for sale puma gucci,nike jordans…

Does anyone know where on earth I can buy bulk lots of used fully developed romance books?
I want to buy them in lots of at least 25, but I don’t want to pay a integral lot and I don’t want ebay. I just want to be able to pay a specific price for them.Thanks! Lol my bookshelf. Have so many it’s…

Does anyone know where on earth i can carry information give or take a few Rachel Vincent the author of My soul to lift?
i am doing a project and i need information about Rachel Vincent and i can’t find anything about her anywhere.I really obligation some help.please. http://rachelvincent.com/RV.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rachel_Vinc… it seems there is not so much information on…

Does anyone know where on earth I can carry really cheap Agatha Christie book bundles (apart from eBay)?
You could try charity shops, or amazon. There is a really good website called The Book People. They often enjoy sets of books. I don’t know if they have any Agatha Christie at the moment but it might be worth having a look.

Does anyone know where on earth i can draw from a copy of The encyclopedia of the music business by Harvey Rachlin?
or the name and author of a book similar to that Try this link: http://www.goodreads.com/book/compare_pr… You could buy it from Amazon. Source(s): http://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Music… It is up on Amazon used for as little as $.035 used…

Does anyone know where on earth I can find a t-shirt beside the Tooth, Fang, and Claw album cover on it by Ted Nugent?
It’s the same shirt worn by Wooderson in Dazed and Confused. Just so you know, you posted this in the Books & Authors category. You might hold better luck getting answers in the Music section, lol. Anyway,…

Does anyone know where on earth i can find the fearsome version of sprite tale on the internet?
Try www.grimmfairytales.comAlso look up Sun, Moon, and Talia. The brothers Grimm wrote the scariest ‘fairy tales’ I ever had the misfortune to read as a child. Most of them scared the schitt out of me. Try- http://www.nationalgeographic.com/grimm/… or http://juleslife.wordpress.com/2008/10/3… …

More Book questions please visit : BookFreeFAQ.com

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Stylish Ralph Lauren

Tuesday, August 24th, 2010

Stylish Ralph Lauren

Polo Ralph Lauren is the luxury fashion and lifestyle company of the designer Ralph Lauren. This fashion house specializes in a great selection of high-end casual and semi-formal wear created for men and women alike, as well as fragrance, accessories and house furnishings.

This brand was launched back in 1967 when Ralph Lauren was able to get a ,000 loan. Before launching the designer label, he actually worked for Brooks Brothers. Then in 1968, he opened a line of ties for men. After a year, e opened a boutique store that was within Bloomingdale’s, a Manhattan department store. The first women’s collection of the label was launched in 1971, along with the first standalone store located in Beverly Hills, California. After ten years, the brand was able to go global with the opening of its first international store on Bond Street in London.

The brand now designs and produces clothing, fragrances, accessories, furniture, along with the restaurant RL located in Chicago. The flagship store is on Madison Avenue, where the former Rhinelander Mansion stood in New York City. The other flagship stores could be found in Chicago, London, East Hampton, Miami, Palm Beach, Milan and Tokyo.

Ever since Polo, the first brand of Ralph Lauren was in 1967, they have expanded to give room for the wide variety of luxury brands for clothing for men and women. For men’s clothing, these would include: the purple label, which was launched in 1994 and is also the signature of Ralph Lauren, making it the highest end men’s line; the black Label, which offers a more modern and Italian cut in its suits, dress shirts and sportswear; Polo Ralph Lauren, which is his first brand created for men, and the most widely available – spanning from accessories to tailored clothing to sportswear; Polo Denim which is a relaunching of their Polo Jeans Co. line; Lauren Ralph Lauren; and Chaps.

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Wedding Attire For Grooms

Monday, August 23rd, 2010

Wedding Attire For Grooms

Sure, we all know that the bride is destined to be the star of the day at a wedding, but what about the groom? Let’s not overlook him! More and more men these days agree: what they wear matters too, and believe it or not, many grooms have opinions on their wedding attire. Here is a look on the trends in wedding attire for grooms.

One big trend for formal weddings is for the groom to wear a tuxedo with a straight tie rather than a bow tie. You only have to look to Hollywood to see this trend in action on the red carpet. Check out how dashing Hollywood’s leading men look in their tuxedos with straight black ties at the Academy Awards. This is a trend that has come into its own in mens’ wedding fashion, as well. A lot of guys think that the bow tie is just too dorky or old-fashioned, while the straight tie feels much more hip and modern.

Bring that around full circle, because there is also in fact a revival of bow ties on younger men these days (huh?), just not with formal tuxedos. Grooms and groomsmen are wearing bow ties in fun prints for preppy weddings. To see how to interpret this wedding trend in a way that is preppy-chic, not old fuddy-duddy, flip through any Vineyard Vines catalog. There you will see how a bow tie with a nautical motif or even in with the logo of your alma mater can be very cool when worn with a khakis, a navy blazer, and a pastel shirt (pink, if you dare; light blue or yellow, if you dare not).

The hip city loft wedding trend is going strong, and the attire that would suit a groom in a country club or hotel ballroom simply will not work in such an aggressively hip setting. The answer: a custom suit (or at least a custom tailored one). The cut of the suit should be more Hedi Slimane than Brooks Brothers. Anything Italian is good. A British cut suit can also work well if the groom has the “geek chic” thing going on, but it has to be worn with an air of irony and slightly mussed hair.

Even more traditional grooms are taking more of an interest in what they wear for their weddings. They may not go for custom suits or Hollywood inspired fashion, but that doesn’t mean that they are willing to leave the entire decision in the bride’s hands either. These are the grooms who will wear a classic tuxedo for the evening or a navy blue suit for a daytime wedding, but they use their accessories to put a personal stamp on the outfit (yes, technically, men do wear accessories!). It could be as subtle as a patterned pair of dress socks instead of basic black, or adding a dash of color to a suit with an interesting pocket square. Many brides will also give their fiances gifts of wedding jewelry which can be worn to add personality to their attire. Popular wedding jewelry gifts for grooms include silver cufflinks and pocketwatches.

So you see, it is in fact possible for a groom to show some style on his wedding day. He is probably in no danger of upstaging the bride (let’s hope not!), but he can still put together a look that has character and personality. And brides, just think of how handsome your stylish groom will look in the wedding photos!

Bridget Mora writes for Silverland Jewelry about weddings, style, and etiquette. Gifts of wedding jewelry such as silver cufflinks are great for the groom and his groomsmen.

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Monday, August 23rd, 2010

Being one of the nation’s oldest clothes merchant, Brooks Brothers is proud to uphold the same customs and values for nearly two hundred years. The firm consider these are the reasons why their customers think about them as much more than a shop. Brooks Brothers is part of America’s history.

Brooks Brother’s outlet stores can be found mostly within the USA. Tanger and Prime Outlets frequently include a Brooks Brothers store. You are able to look forward to the same high quality in the outlet as in a regular shop, the clothing is usually surplus inventory or last years ranges. Nevertheless it is still great to wear and of the same exact high quality yet with a substantial price cut.

Brooks Brothers Outlet

The company is famous for many reasons like the fact that numerous leaders of the country have worn the merchants brooks brothers 346 suit and clothing, mentions in many best selling books and works of fiction, celebrities donning their clothing in Hollywood films and above all, simply because they are the oldest remaining clothing merchant within the country’s history. Its Brook Brothers outlet stores also have proved to be a significant success.

The Brooks Brothers sale outlet shops were among the foremost to unveil the well-known button-down assortment of shirt collars. They’re also famous for their formal shirts, ties, polo coats and Shetland sweaters. Their summer time suits are very popular due to the lightness in cloth as they are made out of seersucker and cotton corduroy. They’re the ones who developed what is known as ‘Brooks weave’, which is made up of polyester, Dacron and cotton. This particular weave is mainly discovered in fabrics which require lots of use.

Although the last Brooks sibling that was actually attached with the organization eventually left when it was bought out in 1946, the new owners chose to keep the brand as they recognized that folks knew they can expect the best level of quality and outstanding service when they visit their Brooks Brothers outlet stores.

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How Do Pirates Dress for Halloween (and What Do They Do?)

Monday, August 23rd, 2010

How Do Pirates Dress for Halloween (and What Do They Do?)

How do pirates dress for Halloween? They can’t strap on a peg leg, prop a plastic parrot on their shoulders, apply an eye patch and wrap a red bandana around their scurvy heads. That’s no fun at all — not for a pirate on Halloween. That would be like we landlubbers wearing a suit to a Halloween bash — the same suit and “business casual” clothing that we wear to work each day.

I happen to know how pirates dress for Halloween. I know it because I am on intimate terms with pirates, or as intimate as it is possible to get with pirates, as I always have to watch my back for the odd blade or misplaced cutlass. I even once sat in on a pirate support group as part of my research into all matters piratical, and made a good many friends that evening, although they were not lasting ones, the members of the group mutinying in the church parking lot and puncturing the tires of their rivals. (This caused hard feelings and the pirates consequently disbanded the group.)

Pirates, and this is important, do not dress like swashbucklers on Halloween. Pirates are, among their other attributes, consummate non-conformists. How can they dress like pirates on Halloween when everyone else dresses like them?

Halloween is a sacred holiday in America, and that is primarily because more liquor is sold on Halloween than on any other holiday. This particular holiday, therefore, is quite important to buccaneers. Far be it from them to let it be taken away by landlubbers.

I am surprised that more liquor is sold on this holiday than on any other holiday. There is the Fourth of July backyard barbecue, when we look up to the sky to see the rockets’ red glare with a beer in our hand. Let’s not forget the Labor Day picnic, when so many drown their end of summer sorrows with frosty drafts. Thanksgiving is good for a couple of glasses of Merlot, which goes well with turkey and cousins that you cannot otherwise stand the rest of the year. Christmas means extra cheer in the guise of spiced wine and aged whisky. Bubbly is for New Year’s Eve and Mimosas are for New Year’s Day. You have not lived, or regretted it, until you had your fill of Mogen David wine at a Passover Seder. Memorial Day, I believe, is a weak sister of a holiday when it comes to imbibing alcohol. No one is in a party mood on Memorial Day because they know that they have to go to work the next day, and no one except the most extreme radical liberals from Harvard or the entire state of California enjoys seeing John Wayne get shot for umpteenth time in “The Sands Of Iwo Jima”.

Understand that the true pirate does not conform to norms of behavior, and so if everyone else is getting smashed on Halloween, the true pirate must remain sober. As nonconformity is a pirate’s calling card, there is no better way to dis the rest of the populace than by staying stinking sober.

Everyone else grabs candy or plays pranks on Halloween. What yucks are there in that for a pirate that takes whatever it wants, and engages in antisocial behavior all year long? Sea dogs, consequently, not only observe the law on Halloween but also are stalwart citizens. They even help old ladies cross the street, and not into oncoming traffic, which is what they like to do during other days of the year.

Cutthroats are appalled at all of the faux pirates on Halloween.

Pirates must do the unexpected. Consequently, on Halloween, pirates dress as civilians. They dress like us while we dress like them.

Pirates wear pantyhose on Halloween. They keep their pantyhose scattered throughout the city and countryside, hidden away under the floorboards of laundromats and in little plastic bags behind the trunks of specially marked trees. Others wear leisure suits straight out of the Seventies, the better to mock us. (I hear from my sources that pooka beads and Qianna shirts are especially in with pirates this year.) They carry briefcases and wear neckties, and come to parties as insurance salesmen. A laptop bag or backpack, preferably embellished with a company logo, is always a tasteful accessory on Halloween. Cufflinks, among some old salts, are de rigueur and are always accompanied by a starched white shirt — Brooks Brothers of course.

Now you know. When you see a proper gentleman or gentlewoman walking on your street this Halloween night, beware. You have just come face to face with terror itself, the embodiment of evil, not to mention a near perfect clone of us on every other day of the year. Aarrgghhh.

Edward Chupack is an attorney for a major law firm. He lives near Chicago. His first novel, Silver, is available now from Thomas Dunne Books. To learn more about Long John Silver, please visit www.silverpirate.com.

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